20% smaller and lighter housing (waterproof to 131’/40m)
SuperView video mode captures the world’s most immersive wide angle perspective
Auto Low Light intelligently adjusts frame rate for stunning low light performance
33% improved image sharpness and reduced distortion
Faster built-in Wi-Fi for enhanced connectivity to the Wi-Fi Remote (included) and GoPro App
25% longer battery life
Upgraded audio performance
Hero3+ Silver:
20% smaller and lighter housing (waterproof to 131’/40m)
2x faster image processor enables 1080p60 and 720p120 fps video
Enhanced low light performance
Improved image sharpness and reduced distortion
Faster built-in Wi-Fi for enhanced connectivity to the Wi-Fi Remote (sold separately) and GoPro App
25% longer battery life
Upgraded audio performance
DSLR Video Shooter Caleb Pike, goes into detail with the new Sigma 18-35 f/1.8. I would love to get my hand on one of these for my APS-C cameras, yet it can also be put on a full frame at 35mm.
I've been using First Cut Pro recently to send out edits to bosses and collaborators. So far, it is working great. How it works is, I (as an editor) up load a link to my video in the designated project folder and send then generated link to however I want to view the video. The video on there end allow them to make note at any point, and the notes are then turned into markers on my editing software.
On Friday, Aaron Pate and I, along with some volunteers from the theater department filmed four short videos for an anti-bullying campaign.
Hallway Scene
The series is comprised of 4 short videos depicting different scenarios where bullying takes place. Our actors were wonderful and I will be sure to post some links once I'm done editing.
Party Scene
Interview Scene
We shot in a room called the "Black Box" and it is just that a room painted completely black. So I brought in a three point lighting kit. Two soft-boxes lighting the front and then a 500w backlight. Aaron and I wanted the background to be complete dark to add to the severity of the subject but to also allow for some ambiguity to where these situations may take place.
Lighting Diagram for Hallway Scene
In post, I added various tweaks, a slight curve, color correcting, etc. Then added an effect called Neat Video, which does an amazing job removing rain and resharpening. Finally, added the plug-in Film Convert which can color footage to match different film stocks, my specs below.
I got a chance to use the new Kamerar slider I reviewed last week and noticed some new things. It bows pretty far on each ends with a full load and the ball head is definitely rubbish. But besides some small things that can be worked around it held up pretty well and is defiantly work a $100 investment!
Interview scene set-up
Sorry for the horrible quality.
Story structure is the foundation of your message. Ruining it will alter the message your audience receives.
I'm heading to California in October to shoot a micro-documentary about my cousin Ric Barton who owns the FXR Harley-Davidson parts distribution shop called Elvis' Place, where he has also built some custom choppers. Researching what question and how to order them I ran into Andrew David Watson's video about a bicycle shop. Ill post a link below so you can watch it.
My story will be along the same lines, one person who creates a product. So the frame work of the piece is what intrigues me. I looked around his other videos and found they all follow the same formula, generally.
A Hook - Something that defines the person or business. This could be a ideal or philosophical statement or something about the location. But if it pertains to the subject matter the transition into the main body of the story will flow better.
Introduction to the Character - Simply name and profession, how long they've been perfecting their craft.
How did they start - This can go back to their childhood or the beginnings of their business.
Progression to present day - How has the business changed throughout the years and so on.
Present day - What do you do on a daily basis.
Future - Where do you see your business going in 10, 15 years.
This is not a perfect structure. It changes with everyone he interviewed, but it seems like a good place to start and easy template to follow in post.
Here's a creative non-fiction narrative I worked on in college. Props to Stephanie DeLorenzo for the script
My first DSLR was a Nikon d3000 that I got as a christmas. I considered myself a Nikon fan boy and tried to be loyal to my brand. As the d5100 came out, I pouched and purchased one with its ability to record video. At an amateur level with limited experiance, I was thoroughly impressed. But having my hands on it for a couple years, and being considered a 'professional' videographer, faults are appearing. My two grievous with the Nikon d5100 are:
When you enter live view to record a movie, you can adjust the aperture but the camera will ignore it. Take a shot at F8 and then enter live view, set aperture to F1.4 and hit record – the manual states it should record at F1.4, the screen is telling you “F1.4″ and yet the movie is being shot at F8!
Critically shutter speed and ISO are controlled automatically by the camera in live view and movie mode, although pressing and holding AEL for the duration of the shot prevents them from changing. Yes shutter and ISO are adhered to in live view mode, just not by the display or movie. For example you can set ISO 100 and 1/30 and hold AEL whilst hitting the record button but it’s awkward and means you have to have your hand on the camera even when recording.
You can 'fix' the non manual movie mode by setting the AE lock, but it sit tries to compensate slightly. But more importantly, by investing in a Nikon body I shouldn't have to fix an issue. It shows that Nikon's focus is on Photographers and as a still camera the d5100 is great, but it appears Canon invests more into DSLR Video shooters.
Luckily Nikon glass is compatible with Canon bodies with the Fotodiox Lens Mount Adapter, so I can keep my precious 35 and 50mm f/1.8s
But what body? I'm leaning towards a T3i which I have experience with and savings some money to invest in glass, or the now outdated 60d. Who's prices have dropped with the release of the d70.
Here's an in depth video Dave Dugdale produced comparing the two:
Let me know what you think. T3i or 60d or something else? And if anyone is looking to buy a camera...
Upon first heard of the BMPC a couple months ago. I researched the new camera awaiting its release and two things jumped out at me. (1) It records in RAW and Apple ProRes. That seems so cool. Having the same ability to control your video as you do a RAW photo. Correcting overexposure, playing around with Clarity and split-toning, it sounds awesome! (2) Its the size of a large phone! When I think Raw video, instantly I'm hit with an image of a Red Dragon or Cineflex. But to be able to shoot 13 stops of dynamic range with something that fits in the palm of your hand, sign me up for two!
BMPC - $995
Then, I see the price - $995. Which, I guess is reasonable, but in my budget that's not going to happen. Excluding the cameras blatant faults. Philip Bloom posted an instagram photo of 15 batteries he used on a single day shoot. 15! 15 batteries for a day.
Dave Dougdale from learngdslr.com also expressed some concern about the focusing:
I really liked the comment by Mauricio Fernández on Dave's Youtube page which really sums the Pocket Camera up:
I really like the BMCC, but this one... not so sure. It has a smaller sensor, so your 50mm would be like a 100 mm, it eats up batteries and sd cards like candy, the controls are not user friendly at all, and not even a 2K or 2.7K option. So, again... why would I buy this as opposite of a... let's say... 70D?
Ran across this article about an amazing stabilizer. Check out some of this footage:
The rig was designed by Freefly Systems and will come in two models, the M10 and M5. The M10, which is the rig in use in all the videos, is the larger version; it can hold up to 10 lbs of equipment and will run you $15,000 when it hits the market. The M5 will be a smaller version of the M10 that will go for half the price in order to bring the system within reach of more people’s budgets. Petapixel.com
I was first turned onto the Kamerar slider by DSLR Video Shooter, Caleb Pike. The short slider come in at $99, which I thought was a deal! I am happy with the size, as I wanted something that was easily portable. With a short slider, adding foreground elements adds a vaster to the sense of motion in the shot.
This slider is friction based, not the coveted roller bearing design. Previously I had eyed Konova k2, which was $219, a bit out of budget. Friction based sliders use little pads that rub up against the rail to smooth the slide. Damaging the rail could be detrimental to the integrity of your slider.
Overall, it is pretty smooth. As this is my first interaction with a non-DIY, built slider - it seems to hold up well. It feels professional and lightweight in your hands. Fast movement are nearly impossible, the slider preforms best with slow movements. I started dragging a finger behind the carriage to act as drag control and for stability.
These shots in the video below were made with the d5100, with a 20% warp stabilizer added where marked. Next time I will take off the battery grip to make the center over gravity a little lower to help with some unintentional shaking. I also read that the locking mechanism on the side of the carriage what rubbish, but in my experience it holds up really well (no pun intended).
I will also get some rubber bumpers or something to put on the ends of the carriage to stop the extrusive thud that happens when you reach the end of the rail.
Sliders, Ball head, Quick Release Plates, Camera, etc., all this stuff adds up weight wise. Be sure to have a steady tripod to support a lot of weight. I'm using the Pearstone VT-2100, and it's barely hanging on.
To pair with the slider, I also purchased the DMKFoto Heavy Duty Ball Head with Quick Release Plate for $20. This thing is trash. It feels solid and is heavy, which adds weight to the slider helping smooth it down, but the locking mechanism is garbage. To re-position the camera, you unscrew the knob and have to hold the base in place while with the other hand move the ball joint. But for $20, what do you expect.
Bottom line: Great, little, cheap slider. Use the money you're saving and put it towards a good tripod and ball head.
I once saw a video comparing the audio from a rode video mic into camera, H1, and camera audio. But towards the end of the video he plugged the rode in the H1 and it sounded amazing! So that is what I am going to experiment with today. Rode Videomic vs Zoom H1 from Matthew Pearce on Vimeo.
The Rode Videomic has been a fixture on top of my DSLR since I started shooting. Most times just running straight into the camera. I have never been failed but I am contemplating upgrading to the Videomic PRO, but that has been put on the back burner. Also, the H1 has been the best thing a $100 could buy. Simple interface, but most importantly great audio. I just sold a Tascam DR-40 because of a lack of 3.5mm input and I rarely use XLRs. So for now the H1 is my man.
I would also like to say all these items can be used in multiple applications, decreasing the cost per application while maintaining professional quality.
Wednesday, I'm going to be recording the fabulous Pamela Graham for a piece were working on that promotes The University of South Carolina Upstate's Greenville Campus, that's a mouth fool. I already have the H1, which I talked about earlier, and the AZDEN Omni-Directional Lavaliere. So, The problem is how do I attach the H1 to Pam?
Well thinks to KnopTop, my solution got a lot easier. A Dollar Tree, generic cell phone holder with clip that the H1 can slide into. The good thing about this particular Lav is the small cord length, which can easily be managed, instead of 20' of bird nest.
